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Baintha Brakk

Coordinates: 35°56′52″N 75°45′13″E / 35.94778°N 75.75361°E / 35.94778; 75.75361
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Baintha Brakk
بائنتھا براک
The Ogre
Baintha Brakk I (center right) and II (far right, clouded), with Ogre's Thumb spire in left foreground
Highest point
Elevation7,285 m (23,901 ft)
Ranked 86th
Prominence1,891 m (6,204 ft)[1]
ListingUltra
Coordinates35°56′52″N 75°45′13″E / 35.94778°N 75.75361°E / 35.94778; 75.75361
Geography
Baintha Brakk بائنتھا براک is located in Pakistan
Baintha Brakk بائنتھا براک
Baintha Brakk
بائنتھا براک
Location in Gilgit-Baltistan
Baintha Brakk بائنتھا براک is located in Gilgit Baltistan
Baintha Brakk بائنتھا براک
Baintha Brakk
بائنتھا براک
Baintha Brakk
بائنتھا براک (Gilgit Baltistan)
Map
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Maps: terms of use
45km
30miles
Pakistan
Diran
45
Diran
Yutmaru Sar
Yutmaru Sar
Baintha Brakk
Baintha Brakk
Yazghil Dome South
Yazghil Dome South
Ultar, Ultar Peak, Ultar Sar
Ultar, Ultar Peak, Ultar Sar
Haramosh Peak
Haramosh Peak
Momhil Sar
Momhil Sar
Malubiting
Malubiting
Yukshin Gardan Sar
Yukshin Gardan Sar
Passu Sar
Passu Sar
Pumari Chhish
Pumari Chhish
Trivor Sar
Trivor Sar
Shispare or Shispare Sar
Shispare or Shispare Sar
Batura III
Batura III
Kanjut Sar
Kanjut Sar
Batura II
Batura II
Rakaposhi
Rakaposhi
Batura Sar, Batura I
Batura Sar, Batura I
Kunyang Chhish (Kunyang Kish, Khunyang Chhish, Khinyang Chhish)
8
Kunyang Chhish (Kunyang Kish, Khunyang Chhish, Khinyang Chhish)
Distaghil Sar
7
Distaghil Sar
The major peaks in Karakoram are rank identified by height.

Legend:
1:K22:Gasherbrum I, K53:Broad Peak4:Gasherbrum II, K45:Gasherbrum III, K3a6:Gasherbrum IV, K37:Distaghil Sar8:Kunyang Chhish9:Masherbrum, K110:Batura Sar, Batura I11:Rakaposhi12:Batura II13:Kanjut Sar14:Saltoro Kangri, K1015:Batura III16: Saser Kangri I, K2217:Chogolisa18:Shispare19:Trivor Sar20:Skyang Kangri21:Mamostong Kangri, K3522:Saser Kangri II23:Saser Kangri III24:Pumari Chhish25:Passu Sar26:Yukshin Gardan Sar27:Teram Kangri I28:Malubiting29:K1230:Sia Kangri31:Momhil Sar32:Skil Brum33:Haramosh Peak34:Ghent Kangri35:Ultar Sar36:Rimo massif37:Sherpi Kangri38:Yazghil Dome South39:Baltoro Kangri40:Crown Peak41:Baintha Brakk42:Yutmaru Sar43:K644:Muztagh Tower45:Diran46:Apsarasas Kangri I47:Rimo III48:Gasherbrum V

 
Location in Gilgit-Baltistan
LocationGilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan
Parent rangePanmah Muztagh, Karakoram
Climbing
First ascentJuly 13, 1977 by Doug Scott and Chris Bonington
Easiest routesnow/ice climb
Baintha Brakk
Simplified Chinese拜塔布拉克峰
Transcriptions

Baintha Brakk (Urdu: بائنتھا براک) or The Ogre is a steep, craggy mountain, 7,285 metres (23,901 ft) high, in the Panmah Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram mountain range. It is located in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan.[2] It is famous for being one of the hardest peaks in the world to climb: twenty-four years elapsed between the first ascent in 1977 and the second in 2001.

Location

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Baintha Brakk rises above the north side of the Biafo Glacier, one of the major glaciers of the central Karakoram. It lies about 75 kilometres (47 mi) north of Skardu, the major town of the region, and about 30 kilometres (19 mi) north of the roadhead at Askole.[3]

Notable features

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Baintha Brakk is exceptional in its combination of altitude, height above local terrain, and steepness. It is a complex granite tower, steeper and rockier than most other Karakoram peaks. (The Latok peaks next to Baintha Brakk are similar, however.) For example, its South Face rises over 3,000 m (9,800 ft) above the Uzun Brakk Glacier in only 2 km (1.2 mi) of horizontal distance.[4]

It is because of this steep, rocky nature that Baintha Brakk has been both so difficult to climb and so attractive a target for extremely high-level mountaineers.

Climbing history

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Following two unsuccessful attempts in 1971 and 1976, the peak was first climbed by two Britons, Doug Scott and Chris Bonington, in 1977.[5] (The other members of the party were Mo Anthoine, Clive Rowland, Nick Estcourt, and Tut Braithwaite. Estcourt, Anthoine, and Rowland all reached the lower West Summit at 7,150 m (23,460 ft), while Braithwaite was injured early on by rockfall.[6]) They climbed via the Southwest Spur to the West Ridge, and over the West Summit to the Main Summit. The ascent of the summit block required difficult rock climbing that extended the boundaries of what had been done at over 7,000 metres (23,000 ft).[6]

The descent proved more dangerous still: On the first rappel from the summit, Scott broke both legs. Later, Bonington broke two ribs and contracted pneumonia. Also, much of the week-long descent to base camp was in a major storm. However, they were all able to reach base camp, where they had a long wait for assistance.[6]

The second ascent of Baintha Brakk was made by Urs Stöcker, Iwan Wolf, and Thomas Huber, on 21 July 2001, via the South Pillar route, following their first ascent of the subsidiary peak Ogre III (circa 6,800 metres (22,300 ft)).[7] They note that there were more than 20 unsuccessful expeditions in the interim.[8] Mountain INFO magazine characterized their ascent as "arguably the most notable mountaineering achievement during the entire 2001 season."[9]

A third ascent by a new line on the peak's South Face was made by Americans Kyle Dempster and Hayden Kennedy on August 21, 2012. Compatriot Josh Wharton had also accompanied them on the climb but had to abandon the attempt at approximately 6,800 m (22,300 ft) due to altitude sickness.[10] Earlier in their trip the two had made another first ascent (along with Slovenian Urban Novak) of a new line on the massive east face of K7 (6,934 meters; 22,749 ft).[11]

See also

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References

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  1. ^ "Karakoram ultra-prominent peaks". peaklist.org. Retrieved 2013-07-27.
  2. ^ This region is disputed, and is claimed by India to be an integral part of the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir.
  3. ^ Orographical Sketch Map of the Karakoram by Jerzy Wala, 1990. Published by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research.
  4. ^ DEM files for the Himalaya/Karakoram (Corrected versions of SRTM data)
  5. ^ Bonington, Chris (1978). "The Ogre". American Alpine Journal. #21 (52): 412–434. ISSN 0065-6925. Retrieved 18 August 2024.
  6. ^ a b c Andy Fanshawe and Stephen Venables, Himalaya Alpine-Style, Hodder and Stoughton, 1995, ISBN 0-340-64931-3.
  7. ^ American Alpine Journal, 2001, p. 365
  8. ^ The Himalayan Index Archived 2014-06-22 at the Wayback Machine lists only ten unsuccessful attempts; however the index is often incomplete. Its entry for the Ogre also mistakenly lists the second ascent as occurring in 2000.
  9. ^ American Alpine Journal, 2001, p. 366
  10. ^ "Ogre I, South Face, 2012 - Himalaya Masala". Archived from the original on 2013-03-20. Retrieved 2013-03-13.
  11. ^ K7, East Face, 2012 - Himalaya Masala
  • Jill Neate, High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks, ISBN 0-89886-238-8.
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